Day 123: Hiking and Hiking Movies

The Dinsmores – Ridge
Mileage: 1

I slept inside in a recliner, which turned out to be a good idea because it rained yet again last night. I’d left my tent outside to dry overnight and it was collapsed in a puddle when I went out in the morning. Oops.

I had the best breakfast I’ve had on trail, maybe it’s just because my waffles were shaped like circus animals, but it was spectacular. We watched movies all day, several PCT documentaries, because when we are not hiking apparently we just watch movies about hiking.

Happy Pants and I decided to get back to the trail so we can get an early start tomorrow and not get sucked into town. I headed to the cafe to get one last slice of pie and the waitress danced around the counter and enveloped me in a huge hug. “Happy hiking! Be safe!” She said.

We got to the trailhead just in time to find a spot to camp. We poured over elevation profiles for the next section. It should be fine, we’re pros right?

Days 119 – 122: Washington’s Four Day Temper Tantrum

Mirror Lake – The Dinsmores
Mileage: 83

These 4 days are getting combined into one blog entry because every day went as follows: hiked all day, it rained on and off, I couldn’t see anything of the north cascades, and I’m bitter.

Sochi and I hiked together for this section, along with Goat and Happy Pants, so that was fun. Sochi and I crossed a super sketchy river on logs the size of toothpicks. 30 feet from where we crossed, the river tumbled off a cliff and down into the valley below. After we got back up to the trail, the skies opened up again and it was pouring. We were soaked.

Happy Pants and Goat should be just around the corner, the plan was to camp at the first camp site after the sketchy river. We ended up walking 4 more miles before we found them, because of course the trail climbed up along a ridge. The trail was more like a river, we stopped caring about keeping our feet dry. My hands were pruney. Sochi and I were hiking fast, singing Christmas songs and Britney Spears to distract ourselves. In the end we were more yelling the lyrics than singing them, but I still maintain that we rocked it.

Happy Pants and Goat were in their tents when we found them. They had beaten the last downpour so they weren’t soaked. I was jealous. I pitched my soaking wet tent and tried to dry the inside with little success. My stuff ranged from sopping wet (everything I was wearing, my pack and tent) to damp (my sleeping bag, and everything else inside my pack liner). No matter how hard I tried, everything was only going to get wetter. That’s how it works out here when it rains for days. there is no such thing as waterproof gear, unless you carry all your shit in a metal box or something.

When I finally descended to Stevens Pass to get a ride to the Dinsmores, my shoes and socks had rubbed a huge open sore all around both ankles. I felt like my feet were shriveling in my shoes. A warm shower and a hot town meal were just what I needed. And loaner clothes, sweet loaner clothes. I miss cotton, more specifically my transformers pajama pants and old soccer tshirt. So comfy.

Less than 200 miles to Canada and there is only 1 day in the next week and a half that doesn’t have a chance of rain. Looks like it will be a soggy slog to the border.

Day 118 – Hiking Hard For the Sake of Hiking Hard

Spring – Mirror Lake

Mileage: 32.8

 

I should have woken up earlier this morning. At 6:30 it wasn’t cold, which is strange. Today’s hike was my least favorite in Washington – basically all clear cuts, and lots of climbing. But I knew that was coming, so I decided I was just going to hike hard all day to get through it. I didn’t really need to, I was already pushing myself pretty hard, but I wanted to see how fast I could go. How quickly could I get up this 2000 foot climb in the hot sun?

 

In the morning, about 3 miles in, I stumbled across the dead forest cache – a magical oasis with a cooler full of sodas, and another one of every snack imaginable. AND the people who stock it live an hour an a half away. What even. I ate a fruit cup and flipped through the register – Goat is about a day ahead, but he is going to Seattle for a couple days, so he’ll catch us when he comes back. I packed out a Twix bar and an orange soda for later and kept hiking.

 

All day I hiked hard, cranking out the miles, barely stopping for breaks. I wanted to push myself, for whatever reason. The last mile to Mirror lake was a steep uphill climb. I was exhausted, my muscles and joints were screaming at me. My ankle was aching like it had when I injured it earlier last year on my shakedown hike. Almost there, keep pushing. I get to the lake and I’m drenched in sweat, deliriously hungry and thirsty. The mosquitos don’t even come near me because they would just slide off my wet skin. I don’t even stop to take my pack off,  I just unclip my hip belt, let my pack fall and keep walking straight into the water.

 

Food, sleep, clouds are rolling in. Pancakes. I did it for the pancakes.

Day 117 – Giant Toothpick Forests and Really Cold Water

Dewey Lake – Spring

Mileage: 31.5

 

Today’s elevation profile was deceptive. It looked pretty flat, with the exception of a sizeable climb first thing in the morning. In reality, it felt like we just climbed all day. There was a lot of ridge walking, so the views were stunning, but it felt unseasonably hot for Washington. 13 miles in I came to a spring, I was so hot and thirsty. I climbed down to it and saw that the water was coming straight out of the ground. Perfect. It was so cold that it was almost too cold to drink. I found a patch of shade and gulped down the delicious water until I had goosebumps. Then I saw eating goldfish until I got up the motivation to stagger back to the trail.

 

The rest of the day I hiked in a heat induced fog, motivating myself with thoughts of pancakes in Snoqualmie. I passed a cabin 25 miles in, a bunch of section hikers were hanging out on the porch winding down from their days,It was so tempting to stop there, socialize a bit and sleep inside with a wood stove. But no. I needed to do more miles, and it was only 5pm, so I pushed on. I hiked through a huge burn area, but the fire was over 15 years ago so it’s really overgrown. There’s just stark white trees with no branches jutting out of the ground. Toothpicks for giants? Or lollipop sticks? I might be going crazy.

 

When I finally reached the spring where we were planning to camp, HP was sprawled out on his sleeping pad drinking tea. He looked exhausted. We looked at the maps for tomorrow – 32 miles of trail lay ahead of us, and then we’ll be 10 miles from Snoqualmie and oh so close to bliss. And a shower, because I’m disgusting. I feel like I’m hiking on the east coast or something with how humid it’s been. I set up my damp tent, and crawl into my damp sleeping bag.

Day 116 – Return of the Hiker Hunger

Ginnette Lake – Dewey Lake

Mileage: 28

 

Hiked the 2 miles in to White Pass, had breakfast, charged my phone, and picked up my resupply box. Boom. In and out in just over 2 hours, which is good because HP and I have decided we want to nero into Snoqualmie Pass on Tuesday, which means big miles between here and there. But I feel like hiking, so I’m on board.

 

The first 13 miles or so are a bit of a struggle, my feet have to get used to my new shoes (same shoe, just a new pair). I take a break by a creek and eat some snacks, take some ibuprofen. Then I set off again and it takes a few more miles, but I’m back in a groove just in time for a long climb. I was worried that the trail would be all forested and kind of monotonous from here to Snoqualmie, but I was proven wrong. Oh, Washington, you are beautiful. That rail took me up above tree line again and I rounded a corner to find Mt. Rainier staring me in the face. It was huge. I had no idea we were that close to it.

 

Before I knew it, I found Happy Pants sitting by the lake eating dinner. I was starving again. These big miles have made my hiker hunger return in full force.

Day 115: Washington Has Stolen My Heart

Walupt Creek – Ginette Lake
Mileage: 24

Washington had my heart. There, I said it. Goat Rocks wilderness is a magical land of meadows filled with wildflowers, all surrounded by beautiful snow covered mountains. It’s the stuff you read about in fairy tales. I’m standing on the side of a mountain, and I can see Mt. Rainier, Mt. St. Helens, and Mt. Adams all at once. What’s more, I ran into Grasshopper and Brakeman! Old friends, I haven’t seen them since before etna! We hiked together and caught up on the last few weeks.

We climbed up the rocks to the knifes edge, named because you’re walking on top of the mountain with drop offs on either side. These mountains are alive, I felt like I was walking along the spine of some great beast, and the wind blowing me about was actually the flapping of wings. I was flying. Maybe they should rename it.

I descend down through the meadows and walk in a dazed stupor for the rest of the day. So epic, so wonderful. I get to camp and HP already has a fire going, of course. I eat my mashed potatoes so fast they I get a stomach ache. It’s a good day.

Day 114: I Move Slow and Steady, But I Feel Like A Waterfall

Creek – Walupt Creek
Mileage: 29.2

Waking up, even though it’s later than usual, is cold. Washington is cold. The first several miles I hike in the meadows beneath Mt. Adams, with Rainier off in the distance to the west. Everything is ridiculously beautiful. I descend back down into the forest, the trail leading me closer to Canada. I realize that I’m trapped in this weird head space where I’m ready to be home and yet I don’t want it to end. I miss my friends and family, but this crazy trail life isn’t something I want to give up. Before I felt like I was being pulled towards the border, now I feel it from both directions. I’m battling remaining present and counting down the miles.

Day 112: Huckleberry Bushes and Lakes!

Panther Creek – Deer Lake
Mileage: 26.5

Today’s hike was fairly unremarkable in terms of terrain. I started the morning off with a gradual 8-ish mile climb that took me up out of the jungle where it was less humid. Before I knew it 14 miles had gone by and I found Happy Pants by a spring. After a short break I was off again, jamming past past section hikers struggling up the hills. Part of me felt bad for passing them so quickly. I used to be them. But I was in a groove and it was such a beautiful day. When I started to climb a ridge I noticed all the huckleberry bushes lining the trail. And they were bumming with delicious berries! I slowed down and ate as many as I could. Handfuls of little purplish red balls of delight. I never had huckleberries before coming out here. So yummy.

Happy Pants and I found a beautiful campsite next to a lake and there’s a fire ring. Perfection. The water is blissfully refreshing, not cold at all. I go swimming while Happy Pants makes a fire and then we both make pots of mashed potatoes. Still in awe of where we are. I’m not sure I’ll even believe it when I’m finished and back on the other side of the country.

Day 111: The Bridge That Built Me

Cascade Locks – Panther Creek
Mileage: 16

I slept in until 7:45! Sochi was still asleep and Molson was curled up at my feet. I miss dogs so much! I pet him as I contemplated my next move. I ended up deciding on a shower – a real shower with real soap and fluffy towels! THANKS, CASSIE! I’m so clean that I feel like I have new skin. I roll around in the soft carpet with Molson and drink coffee. Now it’s 9am. Time to wake up Sochi.

He takes me to the outfitter and of course, voodoo donuts. I have one with crunch berries on it because for some reason I’ve been craving them for the past week. Then it’s back to Cascade Locks we go! When I get to the post office to collect my packages, the post master has to keep going back into the bowels of the building to get more. He creates 2 stacks on the counter, I combine them into one and hobble across the road to find a patch of shade.

I have 6 packages. One I sent myself from Ashland, but still. 5 packages full of food and goodies. Delicious things I didn’t even know I wanted, like pop rocks, combos and granola. I didn’t pick it out, and I haven’t been eating it for 2100 miles. Glorious senders of said packages include Pancake, Natalie, Fitz, Catie, and Mom, who I asked to send me some gear, but she included a million delicious cookies that I usually only get at Christmas time. I should go into anaphylactic shock more often! (Kidding…)

It’s getting late and hot. I fill up with water and set off. To the Bridge of the Gods! To Washington! Looking down through the grated bridge to the water below, I see sailboats passing under me. Is this real? Everything feels so tangible now. Damn. I’m gonna finish this thing.

The miles pass quickly and I find Happy Pants’ tent pitched under a canopy of trees. We are back in the rainforest and all the trees are covered in green moss. I can hear the creek. This is perfect. I set up my tent and walk down the trail until I come to the creek. As I sat filtering water, I looked up at the bridge that was over the creek. It reminded me of one of my favorite places in the world. Though the railing was metal and the trail on the other side didn’t lead to a bunch of platform tents, I felt like I was back at camp. The Sinewa bridge wasn’t anything special, just an old wooden bridge with a river bubbling beneath it. I must have crossed it hundreds of times. I grew up on that bridge. I close my eyes and suddenly I am 12 again, hanging my legs over the edge and laughing with my friends. Then I’m 19 staring at the sky watching the stars, letting the river put me to sleep. I expected to feel sadness when I opened my eyes once more, but I didn’t. Somehow, it felt like everything was coming full circle.

Day 110: I Could Live On The Grass in This Town

Mileage: 0

Sleeping in the grass is euphoric. I wake up fully rested and ready to do absolutely nothing all day. After breakfast I found a spot under a tree to sit and stare at the water, I watch boats sail by. I want to be on them, sailing over the waves. Let’s live on a house boat.

Around 1 Happy Pants and I go to the ale house for lunch. We each order our own pizzas. “Are you guys thru hikers?” A guy asks. “He saw that you each had a pizza for yourselves and he said he knows what you guys are doing,” explained his girlfriend. We nod, cheese strings hanging from our chins and fingers dripping with grease. The guys name is Marshal, and he thru hiked last year. After chatting for a bit they go sit at a table and we finish our pizzas. When we ask for the check, we are told our meal has been paid for. AND when we went to thank Marshal, he gave me his number and told me to call him when we get to Snoqualmie Pass, because he lives near there.

Seriously?! I’m still trying to figure out what it is I did to deserve all this. That’s the second time in 3 days that a complete stranger has been so generous. We walk back to the park, dazed and elated. Walking. It’s all we do. What a strange microcosm, the long distance hiking community. Complete strangers approach me and pay for my meals congratulate me. For walking. Wow.

Back in my patch of grass, I dump my pack out and inventory my gear and wait for Sochi to call. He and his girlfriend Cassie are hiking to tunnel falls and he offered to take me back to Portland with them so I can go to the outfitter. I haven’t seen him in forever! They have Cassie’s dog, Molson in the car, and he’s so friendly and cuddly. We catch up on trail gossip, talk about Canada. We are gonna be there. Soon.

We get to Cassie’s apartment late. Tomorrow morning I’ll go to the outfitter, then back to Cascade Locks to hit the post office and hike into Washington!